Notes on Declawing

If you have routinely had cats declawed to live in your home, I ask that you consider these basic facts: the procedure is not simply removal of the nail, it is the amputation of the entire first digit of the toe. Such a major surgical decision should not be made lightly. The slightest error with the surgeon's knife can leave a cat with destroyed ligaments, leaving it lame for life. Even if the surgery is done "perfectly" the recovery is extremely painful and the cat must learn to walk all over again; imagine having the first digit of all your own toes surgically removed and how that would impact your life. Would you bring a new puppy into your house and decide to remove it's teeth because it started chewing on the legs of your furniture - lord, I hope not! You'd provide chew toys and divert it's chewing to them instead of the furniture - same theory with cats.

Yes, I suggest training your cats. Contrary to popular belief cats can be trained, and it's no more difficult than training a dog. All you need is a little patience and consistency. If you are getting one of my kittens the process has already been started, so all you need to do is reinforce it in your own home!

First step is to provide them with a proper scratching post (or two or three, depending on the size of your house). (see "Your new MC kitten" and the paragraph about "Cat Trees")

A squirt bottle filled with plain tap water is a wonderful tool to discourage unwanted behavior. I start when my kittens are just 6-8 weeks old and starting to explore. There are sisal posts and cat trees around my house, which they are allowed to scratch on, as scratching is a natural and healthy necessity for them. (as you wouldn't have a puppy without providing chew toys, you shouldn't have a kitten without providing a scratchable surface) When they exercise their claws on any piece of furniture, the first correction they get is a verbal "no" and a hand clap. This will startle them, as cats are very sensitive to noises. If they do not stop altogether I follow up with a stronger NO and more vigorous hand clapping. The third step is a squirt from the water bottle, which invariably makes them run off!

This three step process is important. The cat will learn very quickly that if it doesn't desist the unwanted behavior after hearing the NO and hand clapping, it will get squirt. (another option to the water squirt is to shake a small plastic container with pennies in that will make an unpleasant sound for the 2nd warning) Cats are smart and use logic. After being corrected when they try to use furniture or carpeting to scratch on, and NOT being corrected when they use their sisal post or cat trees, they will quickly understand what is acceptable and what isn't. After a few times, the NO alone should be sufficient to discourage them, and if they don't get the message soon enough, you can skip the NO and go straight to the squirt bottle!

It is also good to use approving sounds when your cat does use their scratching posts. This will reinforce the good vs. bad behavior modification.

The reason I don't have a declawing clause in my contract is simple. I think it is more important that a cat be loved and receive good nutrition and care and be kept safe indoors at all times. If the cat/kitten has lived in your home for several months and persists on scratching inappropriately, the owners' choices may be limited to having it declawed or something much worse - like allowing them outside or giving them away, rather than having their home and belongings shredded. In most cases once the emotional bond is created with the cat, it is almost impossible to give the animal up. I would prefer the owner chose the lesser of the evils.

I must reiterate however, my kittens are trained to use their scratching posts before they ever leave my house. In all honesty none of my Maine Coons use their claws on my furniture, (though I do have a couple of domestic mutt cats that have made a mess of a couch and a couple of upholstered chairs - in my life, the cats are more important to me than my furniture!)

Kittens will need reinforcement of their training when they are relocated, so it is important to use the "NO" procedure outlines above until they learn what areas in your home are appropriate for scratching and what places it is not allowed.

Here are some other important guidelines on how to keep your cats from scratching inappropriately:

1) Do not confuse stretching with scratching - cats like to stretch and the posture can look very much like a scratching position, but unless those claws are out and they start pulling at the fabric, it's just a nice stretch and shouldn't be corrected. This will just confuse your cat!
 

2) Furniture near open windows and doors can be especially tempting to the cat, as one of the reasons they scratch is to mark territory. Particularly if you have free-roaming cats or other animals in your area that the cat can smell and be aware of outside your house, they may feel the need to let these other animals know that this is their house and the other animals are not allowed to come in. Placing a sisal post or floor scratcher between the furniture and the open door/window will give them a place to mark and make them feel more secure.
 

3) During the first few weeks of the relocation you may opt to confine the cat to a smaller area during the day or when you are not around to supervise. An enclosed kitchen or bathroom is a good area as there are few soft objects for them to scratch on, and if you leave a sisal post or floor scratcher in with them it will help divert them to use these items for scratching.
 

4) When you are home with the cats, it is important to be consistent with correcting the unwanted behavior and praising the correct behavior.
 

5) Clipping the claws: Keep clippers handy and snip off those ultra sharp ends frequently! This does not take away the urge to scratch (it's inborn, even declawed cats will "scratch") but it will save a lot of wear and tear on your household and your body! I start clipping toenails when kittens are about three weeks old and starting to scuttle around. Those baby needle sharp claws are fierce, and they don't yet have the ability to sheath them! Once cats are a year or two old, clipping is necessary only about once a month, but while they are growing you may need to clip them weekly to keep the edges dull. Particularly when they are kneading or playing they may find it hard to keep those claws in, so for everyone's comfort, keep them clipped.
This is much easier to do than many people imagine, and considering my kittens are used to the process, they generally don't put up much of a fight. I use regular human toe-nail clippers, but some people prefer the scissor style or guillotine style clippers you can buy in any pet-food store. With an older cat not used to having it's nails clipped it may not be so simple, but for kittens, just hold them and talk soothingly while you gently extend the nail with your dormant hand. Using your prominent hand, position the clipper over the tip of the nail and snip. Don't make this a big deal and the kitten won't either! If they struggle or squirm, continue to talk sweet and try to get at least a few nails done in one session. Take a minute to give them a treat, a nice neck scritch, or to play with them while they're still on your lap after the clipping and they will associate the process with pleasure.
You want to look at the nail carefully while clipping so as not to cut into the "quick". Most cats have translucent claws and it is easy to see where the pink starts, which is the part you want to avoid! If you nip this part and it starts to bleed, don't be too concerned and be sure to follow up this torture session with a treat! If you do cut down too far you also want to have another clipping session fairly soon after, so the cat doesn't associate the process with this painful memory. The bleeding should slow or stop within minutes. If it continues to bleed or bleeds profusely you can use some styptic or plain white flour to staunch the injury. While it is extremely rare, if the claw continues to bleed or bleeds profusely after 20-30 minutes, call your vet.

While I do not have the declawing clause in my contract, I do require you to give the cats a chance to prove themselves. It is true that some cats simply cannot be trained, but I have never had that trouble with my Maine Coons, which tend to be intelligent cats and want to please their human family. This is the biggest key in their trainability - they want you to be happy with them and once they understand your rules, they will abide by those rules! Remove unrealistic temptations from their environment and be consistent in your requests for obedience and you will have a cat who is happy and you will live many contented years with them and an unmolested household! I must admit it is very satisfying when people inquire, "But don't they wreck your furniture?" and I can reply, "No, my cats are trained not to scratch!"

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